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This decade revolutionized the face of fashion. Hemlines were raised, and the emergence of the Charleston inspired The Flapper dress – a loose drop-waisted beaded ensemble. Coco Chanel was one of the most influential designers of the time, known for her tweed suits and, of course, the iconic Little Black Dress. The doyenne of the bias cut, Madeline Vionnet designed dresses that draped and flowed with almost liquid lines.
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Times were economically depressed (sound familiar?) during this era so clothing was simplified, hemlines dropped and the waist was brought back to its proper position. Madame Grès was influenced by Minimalist art and Grecian costume. She perfected the skill of draping and pleating, transforming vast amounts of cloth into a single gown. Elsa Schiaparelli’s clothes were witty works of art largely inspired by Surrealism - shocking pink, opulent embroidery and outlandish accessories were her trademarks.
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During wartime 1940s everything was pared down and inspired by practicality. Military style jackets, dresses and suits were tapered and colors were muted and demure. Famous for ignoring the limits of seasons, Charles James was known for his highly sculpted ball gowns. A master of tailored cuts, James’ customers included the legendary writer Diana Vreeland and Coco Chanel.
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As the economy began to recover, there was a return to glamour, lavish fashion and opulence. Christian Dior inspired this direction and became the single most influential designer from the end of the 1940s and throughout the 1950s. His New Look was defined by a generous use of luxe fabrics, sloping shoulders and a wasp waist on flared skirts. Similarly instrumental during this period, Cristobal Balenciaga’s sculptural designs included the kimono sleeved coat, the balloon dress and full skirts.
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Couture took a back seat in favor of a younger, street-wise fashion. Biba was not famous for any particular style but is still highly collectable. Courrèges’ pieces tended to be futuristic, geometric styles in white and silver and he was also responsible for creating the miniskirt – along with Mary Quant. Emilio Pucci’s psychedelic prints - on silk jersey Palazzo pyjamas, dresses, trousers and tops - are particularly covetable. Yves Saint Laurent is the most prolific designer of this era - his “Le Smoking” suits, the Mondrian dress and anything from the Africa and Saharienne collections are all highly covetable.
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During this hedonistic time, no particular style prevailed over another. From bohemian to disco, anything went. Representative of the era, Ossie Clark’s chiffon printed dresses are, to this day, always in demand. Thea Porter specialized in ethnic inspired kaftans using luxurious fabrics and embellishment. Halston’s Roman style tailored dresses and pieces made using the “Ultra Suede” fabric are also worth looking out for. Early Vivienne Westwood is very collectable – choose Victorian inspired corsets and bustle skirts - as are Zandra Rhodes’ colorful prints.
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When it comes to vintage with a contemporary twist - call it “future collectibles” - CoutureLab is well ahead of the game. E2’s clever reworking of clothing by the likes of Yves Saint Laurent mean you needn’t worry about condition, authenticity, fit and other issues that normally come with buying vintage. Walid has created exquisite vintage neck pieces that are equally nostalgic and modern. The Havisham Fur collar, made using recycled mink, lined with vintage Zandra Rhodes and embellished with beading is a statement piece if there ever was one. Karry O’s amazing collection of vintage jewellery from the likes of Madame Grès, - an unusual gold pendant; Yves Saint Laurent - a beautiful pair of Romanesque earrings; and Dior - a striking gold feather cuff - is the ultimate vintage collectors dream. It looks fabulous, it is beautifully crafted and you can wear it without fear of losing its value. Now that’s what I call a sound investment.


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“Goa” Silk DressE2 for CoutureLab -
1970s Silk Flower DressE2 for CoutureLab -
“Cornucopia” 1970s Silk DressE2 for CoutureLab -
Andrea Odicini Silk DressE2 for CoutureLab -
Carven Couture Silk DressE2 for CoutureLab -
Celine Couture Silk DressE2 for CoutureLab -
Chloe Couture Silk DressE2 for CoutureLab -
Dior Couture Silk DressE2 for CoutureLab -
Emanuel Ungaro Parallele DressE2 for CoutureLab -
Jacques Molko Couture Silk DressE2 for CoutureLab -
Lanvin Couture Silk DressE2 for CoutureLab -
Louis Feraud Print DressE2 for CoutureLab -
Mr Blackwell Couture Silk DressE2 for CoutureLab -
Pierre Cardin Couture Silk DressE2 for CoutureLab -
Sabeline Couture Silk DressE2 for CoutureLab -
Cacharel Couture Silk DressE2 for CoutureLab -
Valentino Couture Animal-Print DressE2 for CoutureLab -
Yves Saint Laurent Couture Silk DressE2 for CoutureLab -
Yves Saint Laurent Couture Silk DressE2 for CoutureLab


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