Karine Berreby is something of an anomaly. Meeting her is like meeting a collector of incomparable taste, who spends their time making future antiques. For that, in a way, is what Berreby is. Under the jewelry equivalent of the nom de plume Karry’O, she creates a beautiful range of gems, both precious and costume, that are snapped up by a discerning and informed clientele. Stepping into her shoebox-sized store, one discovers the most divine treasures that reveal her supreme eye for the exquisite.

How did you start out in jewelry design?

I’ve been working in the industry for 12 years and I’ve had a boutique for four of those. When I originally started out I was working for a number of couture houses.

Can you disclose which ones?

I’d prefer not to say. Just like I never divulge the names of my clients – I have some who are actresses, businesswomen and international socialites, but I prefer maintaining discretion.

How then did you make the transition to being an independent designer?

A number of years ago I started to make necklaces from semi-precious stones such as turquoise, tiger’s eye, amethyst and from there things began to evolve. I met two women who were making jewelry for haute couture and I began working with them – the rest is history.

Your link to Paris and couture quality is clearly important to you, why is that?

Everything from Karry’O is produced in Paris, in couture ateliers, nothing is made abroad. This is so important to me, especially as I’m such a perfectionist when it comes to finish.

How would you describe your finished pieces?

It’s quite an eclectic output, but it keeps within the style guidelines of being strong and glamorous. Many different materials are used, but the jewelry remains very timeless. I have friends who bought pieces ten years ago and they’re still looking forward to wearing them again this year. What I do operates outside of fashion. We never put anything on sale, and we continue to sell things that I designed four, five or eight years ago.

Why do you think you are significantly recognized as an authority of taste for both vintage fine and costume jewelry?

The costume jewelry side is well known, but the fine jewelry is perhaps somewhat less, even though I’ve been personally designing it for long time now. It could be pieces by an unknown manufacturer or designer, or from some of the most famous names – from Chanel to Yves Saint Laurent.

Is it difficult to explain to people why costume jewelry can be so expensive?

No, not for me. I have an informed clientele that is well aware that they’re not buying tat – that it’s couture jewelry that merits a certain price. I have women come in who can instantly tell the difference by the weight. [She hands over a chandelier earring that’s a tumble of turquoise-colored pâte de verre baubles, by way of explanation. It would give any earlobe pause for thought.] I put a lot of stead in the importance of quality because when a woman buys jewelry from me she keeps it, for a long time.

You’ve provided a lot of necklaces for CoutureLab which are frequently quite sculptural, in a mixture of vintage and your own designs, why is that?

They’ve been successful because they’re the type of pieces that can be worn easily – for a dinner, over a kaftan, a top, white shirt and jeans: simple yet flattering. For a woman, good jewelry is like an illuminator. Put on earrings or a necklace and – whoosh – every woman has a great face.

You also seem to be very fond of multi-chain necklaces, am I right?

Yes, they’re something I’ve been doing for a long time, and knowing that people like them, I’ve created a number for CoutureLab.

Who are your favorite names in costume design?

I love vintage Yves Saint Laurent and Chanel. Cardin I like a lot too, as well as old Italian jewelry. My favorite decades for jewelry design are the 1960s and 1970s.

Are there rules to wearing jewelry? Should a woman always look at herself in the mirror and remove one thing?

There are limits. It’s either a necklace or earrings, that’s for sure. A full parure? That’s too much. I’m much keener on wearing a strong, statement piece of jewelry, I think that gives a lot more allure and really serves to complete a look.